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The seat belt is securely mounted, it is not ripped or torn, adjusts properly, latches and unlatches. The fire extinguisher is securely mounted, properly charged and rated with the pin in place. Must have 3 red reflective triangles that are not broken. Spare electrical fuses in cupholder. Turning the key on to check that the horns are functional. Mirrors are clean and properly adjusted from the inside for me. The windshield is securely mounted, free of illegal stickers and obstructions, and not cracked or broken. Wiper arms and blades are securely mounted, not damaged, and operate smoothly. Washers and fluid must operate correctly. Heater and defroster are operational. Dash light indicators. Demonstrate all and point to all. DEF indicator is working properly showing more than 1/8 tank. Safe start, Key is on, ABS light comes on and goes off. Transmission is in neutral, Parking brake applied, clutch fully depressed, start vehicle, check trans is in neutral, slowly release clutch. Oil pressure gauge is operational, rising to proper operating range, and no warning lights. Temp gauge is operational, rising to proper operating range, and no warning lights. Volt meter is operational, the alternator is charging to normal range of 12 to 14 volts with no warning lights. Air gauges are operational and building air pressure to governor cutout of 120 to 140 psi, with no warning lights. I will perform the air brake test now. The wheels are properly chocked. The air compressor. The engine is on, I would fast idle the truck to 120 to 140 psi and listen for the governor cut out. The pressure has already been built up to the cut out. The static air leakage rate test. I will turn the engine off and leave the key on. push both air valves in and wait for the gauges to stabilize. I will time 1 minute, the air gauges can not lose more than 3 psi in a class A vehicle. Applied brake test, Engine still off, key still on, both air valves still pushed in, I will depress and hold the brake for 1 minute. The air gauges can not lose more than 4 psi in a class a vehicle. Low air warning test. Engine is still off, key is still on, both air valves are still pushed in, I will begin fanning the brakes. The light and buzzer should come on before 55 psi. Tractor protection valve pop out test. Engine still off, key still on, both valves still pushed in. I will continue to fan the brakes. Between 20 and 45 psi, both valves should pop out. I will preform another safe start. I will fast idle the truck to 120 psi and push in the red valve. Let the pressure build to governor cut out between 120 and 140 psi. Get out backwards state 3 points of contact, remove wheel chocks and get back in using 3 points of contact. Put seat belt back on. Parking brake test. With pressure built to governor cut out, the parking brake is already applied, I will release the trailer brake push in red valve. Put the truck in first gear and gently release the clutch until there is a gently tug forward. The parking brake is holding the vehicle. Trailer brake test. With pressure built to governor cut out, I will apply the trailer brake and release the parking brake. Put the truck in first gear and release the clutch gently until there is a slight tug forward. The trailer brake is holding the vehicle. Service brake test. with pressure built to governor cutout, I will release both the trailer and parking brake. Put the truck in 2nd gear and with both hands on the steering wheel accelerate forward to 5 mph and depress the clutch no more than 2 inches, apply the foot brake. Tell examiner the vehicle did not pull left or right. Set parking brake, put truck in neutral This completes my pretrip inspection.